The Lumix LX3 is a very compact, reactive camera with good LCD and 24 mm wide angle lens.
However, the camera tends to overexpose, metering in general requires attention, grain is there in shadows at lower ISOs, at 800 its all over the place (I wouldn't go beyond that), jpeg images are soft by default, battery life not so great in my view.
It's W-I-D-E!!!!
With a wide optical complement you can reach up to 18mm equivalent (f2 !!!!!) which coupled with panoramic 16/9 aspect ratio provides even more leeway. Add to that the excellent grid display which can be selected (with live histogram) on the LCD.
Exposure
It overexposes like crazy, on average exposure compensation -2/3 EV is required. If portions of sky appear in shot you need to go above -1 EV to avoid blowing highlights.
It is my experience that in many situations (except very low contrast ones) you may wish to underexpose you image. You can achieve this by one or, in more complex situations, a combination of the following methods:
- exposure compensation button
- metering for highlights (sometimes required even with EV compensation)
- keeping histogram to the left and avoid touching the right of the scale (unless for inevitable specular highlights and reflections)
- using i-exposure mode
- use polariser or graduated Neutral Density filter to darken sky
Dynamic range
Please note also that "dynamic range extender" method, called "intelligent exposure adjustment" or i-exposure in the manual, seems to work by actually brightening shadows. The contrary i.e. recovering details in overexposed or blown areas would be pretty complicate. Other manufacturers, like Pentax have a high dynamic range mode that underexposes and digitally processes the image in the same way by working on the shadows to bring back detail. In the LX3 case, you can only count on the image engine processor to carry out the last part of the process. Therefore if you are using this function, you need pay some attention on how you expose your image. Overall i-exposure in my opinion works quite well if it has enough margin to work upon, although don't expect miracles.
Son of M
Another remark, while the metering issue may constitute a problem in some cases, it is possible that the aim of Panasonic (with a strong influence from Leica people probably) was to optimise the camera for low light and contrast situations. Hence, the f2 lens, the tendency to overexpose, and the rather soft image default settings.
If the camera is set to low beeps, no AF assist ight, no LCD screen and a external optical viewfinder is used, you can achieve a sort of stealth mode, which coupled with the camera's short shutter lag, can get you something close to Leica M discrete street photography experience.
Autonomy
Panasonic and independent reviews state that batteries have excellent performances by CIPA standards. My experience is that if you work on just one battery you will run out of energy in two-three hours of continous shooting. And I am hardly using the flash. This is due to energy hungry features like the zooming motor, big screen, extensive controls that need to be reached more frequently by the menus, powerful image engine, etc.
Extra autonomy may be achieved if you don't use flash, shut down LCD, use external view finder instead to compose, avoid frequent zooming (leave at 24mm as if fixed lens - let's call it the Summicron option, which btw has no parallel in the M range) and keep camera to Program, avoid fidling with advanced functions like film mode optimisation, exposure compensation, raw+jpeg recording, etc.
However, to be on the safe side my advice is to bring along not just one but 2 or even 3 extra batteries. The problem is also that the battery charger provided, which is compact with folding sockets, is also quite slow: it can take up to an hour and a half for a full charge. Multiply by the number of batteries and you can get stuck for quite a while.
24mm f2 ultra wide-angle LEICA DC VARIO-SUMMICRON lens
the Lens is clearly one a the best selling point of the camera. Both in terms of wideness (24mm) and brighteness (f2). It is aimed at wide angle photography and I wouldn't certainly complain about that.
The lens sport the typical Leica rendition: sharp while being less contrasty than say... Nikon.
Lens is good but I have impression that noise reduction tends in most cases to destroy the details resolved by lens (can't substantiate but this point would need to be verified).
Lens flares when pointed directly to a light source and with additional lens it's even worse. On the other hand it does not vignette even with the extra lens on. It appears quite consistent center to corner. Distortion is typical of wide angles.
Please note also that "dynamic range extender" method, called "intelligent exposure adjustment" or i-exposure in the manual, seems to work by actually brightening shadows. The contrary i.e. recovering details in overexposed or blown areas would be pretty complicate. Other manufacturers, like Pentax have a high dynamic range mode that underexposes and digitally processes the image in the same way by working on the shadows to bring back detail. In the LX3 case, you can only count on the image engine processor to carry out the last part of the process. Therefore if you are using this function, you need pay some attention on how you expose your image. Overall i-exposure in my opinion works quite well if it has enough margin to work upon, although don't expect miracles.
Son of M
Another remark, while the metering issue may constitute a problem in some cases, it is possible that the aim of Panasonic (with a strong influence from Leica people probably) was to optimise the camera for low light and contrast situations. Hence, the f2 lens, the tendency to overexpose, and the rather soft image default settings.
If the camera is set to low beeps, no AF assist ight, no LCD screen and a external optical viewfinder is used, you can achieve a sort of stealth mode, which coupled with the camera's short shutter lag, can get you something close to Leica M discrete street photography experience.
Autonomy
Panasonic and independent reviews state that batteries have excellent performances by CIPA standards. My experience is that if you work on just one battery you will run out of energy in two-three hours of continous shooting. And I am hardly using the flash. This is due to energy hungry features like the zooming motor, big screen, extensive controls that need to be reached more frequently by the menus, powerful image engine, etc.
Extra autonomy may be achieved if you don't use flash, shut down LCD, use external view finder instead to compose, avoid frequent zooming (leave at 24mm as if fixed lens - let's call it the Summicron option, which btw has no parallel in the M range) and keep camera to Program, avoid fidling with advanced functions like film mode optimisation, exposure compensation, raw+jpeg recording, etc.
However, to be on the safe side my advice is to bring along not just one but 2 or even 3 extra batteries. The problem is also that the battery charger provided, which is compact with folding sockets, is also quite slow: it can take up to an hour and a half for a full charge. Multiply by the number of batteries and you can get stuck for quite a while.
24mm f2 ultra wide-angle LEICA DC VARIO-SUMMICRON lens
the Lens is clearly one a the best selling point of the camera. Both in terms of wideness (24mm) and brighteness (f2). It is aimed at wide angle photography and I wouldn't certainly complain about that.
The lens sport the typical Leica rendition: sharp while being less contrasty than say... Nikon.
Lens is good but I have impression that noise reduction tends in most cases to destroy the details resolved by lens (can't substantiate but this point would need to be verified).
Lens flares when pointed directly to a light source and with additional lens it's even worse. On the other hand it does not vignette even with the extra lens on. It appears quite consistent center to corner. Distortion is typical of wide angles.
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